SubscribeCurrent Magazine Cover
Uncategorized

Table Talk for September 19

NEW: FRENCH 250 One month ago today French 250 opened in the digs once home to the late-Bistro Adde Brewster. Owned by Ted Reece, French 250 dishes up beautiful, classic Gallic cuisine in a sleekly adorned Champagne and black dining room. From the savory lamb shank sandwich with mirepoix to the delicate sea bass atop haricot verts, executive chef Jeremy Thomas‘ (formerly of the Brown Palace’s Ship Tavern) offerings are flavorful and perfectly executed. Our favorite dish is one that could be overlooked: the pea soup. Thickened with crème fraîche and the color of fresh English peas, spoonfuls are velvety and rich, and occasionally surprising with a lightly fried shrimp. Pair the soup with the salad niçoise, and lunch is served. Bonus: Get the Amour 250—three locally made organic chocolate truffles—boxed to go. 250 Steele St., 303-331-0250, www.french250.com TREATS: THE REAL-DEAL SORBET Despite an off-the-beaten-path location, the two-week-old kiosk-style Sorbeteria, is generating plenty of positive buzz. Located inside Market Central (the sleek, if limited, Ballpark grocery store) the glass case and menu board tempt with fresh flavors (mango-raspberry, strawberry, mandarin, pear-passion fruit, marion blackberry, and white peach) and ways in which to enjoy said flavors (scoops, smoothies, sorbet floats, and pints). I walked out with a pint of mango-raspberry and a strawberry-marion blackberry smoothie that sipped tart and sweet. There were seeds, which might annoy some, but to me indicated that the treat was made from the real stuff. Indeed, Michael Ruben, the “master sorbeteer,” keeps his ingredients fresh, using only in-season fruit, filtered water, and raw cane sugar—no fillers, no dairy, no artificial anything. You can taste why in 1997, Ruben’s sorbets were served to the boldface names attending the Summit of the Eight. My only complaint: I didn’t leave with a larger size smoothie and another pint for the freezer. 2046 Larimer St., 303-293-8888 FROM THE MARKET: HONEY CRISP APPLES I do love summer’s harvest, but when peaches and berries give way to apples and pears, I start looking for honey crisp apples to appear in our farmers’ markets. Grown on the Western Slope, this early-season apple—crunchy like a Fuji but far juicier and sweeter—tastes just like fresh-pressed cider. These blushing beauties grow in two sizes, small or extra large; I prefer the smaller because they’re usually less bruised. Eat honey crisps raw, or halve and brush with olive oil and grill ’em up to serve alongside an all-natural Niman Ranch pork chop. —Amanda M. Faison

Sign Up For Our Newsletters

All things Colorado delivered straight to your inbox.

Sign Up
Uncategorized

Table Talk for September 19

NEW: BERKELEY OFFERS UP TASTES
Labor Day marked the opening of Tastes, a wine and dessert bistro on bustling Tennyson Street. In the airy, art gallery-like space, all the paintings on the walls and the handcrafted tables are for sale. The menu changes nearly every day but always features a vast selection of wine, beer, cordials, single malt Scotches, cheeses, tapas, and desserts. Stop in before dinner for a drink and a small plate (marinated mozzarella balls get my vote) or afterwards for a glass of wine and dessert (pastries are procured from a number of local bakeries). Good bets: the fruit mousse and the almond fruit tart. 4267 Tennyson St., 303-458-0209.

OPENING SOON: INDIAN IN CASTLE PINES
Ever since owner Kannan Alagappan closed Denver Woodlands, his Indian restaurant in Aurora (and one of Denver’s best), I’ve awaited the opening of Alagappan’s new eatery. Last week he called with the good news that Chutney’s, a re-imagined Woodlands, will open in Castle Pines Village on Sept. 29. Look for classic Indian cuisine with a continental twist, white tablecloths, mountain views, and a full bar. With chefs Ravi Chandra and Dan Brown in the kitchen, the restaurant promises a full menu (Denver Woodlands was 100 percent vegetarian), and I’m already looking forward to a dosa, a crepe-like treat filled with goodies such as curried potatoes, or sautéed onions chutney, or green chile. 880 Happy Canyon Road, Castle Rock, 303-660-2020, www.chutneysfoodandwine.com.

NEW: AQUA SETS SAIL
With fresh oysters, sashimi, peel-n-eats, lobster, crab cakes, and seafood pot pie, the two-week-old Aqua Oyster Bar & Lounge becomes another anchor for the Golden Triangle neighborhood. But with little else on the menu (the only non-seafood dish is a make-your-own salad) the eatery will have a hard time appealing to steak lovers and vegetarians. That said, Aqua’s dining space seems to be a means to an end rather than a full-fledged restaurant—the compact dining room is glossy and chic but the bar with a 600-gallon fish tank dominates the space. With a nightclub in the back (DJ gets started at 10:30 each night), the seafood menu will provide ample snacks the to night owls. Should you venture in for dinner alone, the $10 tuna tataki with arugula salad, ponzu, and saikyo miso is a hit. 925 Lincoln St, Unit A, 303-839-0034, www.aquadenver.com.

Amanda M. Faison
Amanda M. Faison
Freelance writer Amanda M. Faison spent 20 years at 5280 Magazine, 12 of those as Food Editor.