MATTHEW WILLIAMSON FW09 NEW YORK 02-17-09Williamson has proven himself to be a master with eye-popping color, beading, and pattern, but this season his restraint is what makes his collection work. By keeping embellishments fairly tight and focused–like on a short, sleeveless shift with tribal beading at the neck–his slim-fitting dresses feel modern.

The Gist: For fall, Williamson combines ethnic-inspired prints and tribal beading with an upbeat collection of chic silhouettes. Starting off the runway show with an ombre cocoon coat and jacket, Williamson moved into satin ethnic-print dresses and skirts, anatomically stitched skinny leather pants (a pair in burgundy red should be coveted come fall), and some good-looking knitwear, like a trim coat and dress combination.

Although the more paired-down items look right for the times, a bronze, aqua, and gold beaded gown packs a visual punch.

Look for It At: MAX, 3039 E. Third Ave., 303-321-4949

More photos from the runway:

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON FW09 NEW YORK 02-17-09MATTHEW WILLIAMSON FW09 NEW YORK 02-17-09