Chad Wells undertook an ambitious project when he opened Wells Seafood Market at 25th and Curtis streets this February. The mostly residential neighborhood is not known for restaurants, let alone markets. Yet Wells, a former sushi chef, was determined to give Curtis Park a fresh fish shop that could compete with Whole Foods–a lofty goal in this world of overfishing.

Wells has stocked a fridge full of monkfish, wild Alaskan halibut, corvina, crab, and lobster, and has scheduled every-other-day deliveries to ensure the firmest fillets. His glass case is impressive, but his tiny store is still very much in its initial phase. Much of the cooler space is empty, and the decor has yet to be established.

Still if you’re in north Denver, it’s a friendly place to drop by for pre-made salmon burgers (the jalapeño cheddar is the most popular, though Wells also makes a spinach feta) or a white, meaty slice of escolar.

2532 Champa St., 303-459-4229