When I was a kid, I loved chicken pot pies. Then I grew up, and the heavy crust and limp, overcooked vegetables became a turn-off.

But last week, Black Pearl‘s executive chef Kate Horton’s upscale take on the humble pie drew me back in. Horton serves her version in a miniature copper pot filled with plump poached chicken, savory roasted-butternut squash, sweet potatoes, and celery root. The robust ingredients are folded into a light and velvety chicken-and-thyme velouté. (A vegetarian version is also available.)

Instead of encasing the pie in an overwhelming crust, Horton keeps it simple by topping hers with a single disc of flaky pie crust. The result is a fresh, grown-up version of the comfort food.

Tip: Black Pearl’s chicken pot pie is only served during lunch, and it comes with a green salad tossed in a light vinaigrette.

1529 S. Pearl St., 303-777-0500