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Brunch Biz: The Populist

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The first time I came across jackfruit on a mainstream Denver menu was at the Populist, a couple months after the restaurant opened on North Larimer Street. This large, prehistoric-looking fruit hails from southeast Asia and has a flesh similar in texture to that of chicken. Cooked jackfruit shreds like pulled pork and has a meaty bite, which has earned it praise as a good meat alternative.

The Populist uses the tropical ingredient regularly, sometimes turning it into veggie carnitas or braising it with chiles. One of the latest renditions can be found on chef and co-owner Jonathan Power‘s brunch menu. Power uses the tropical ingredient to add interest to potato hash. The yolks of two over-easy eggs cut any starchiness and ensure that the bright zing of the poblano-chipotle romesco sauce comes through unencumbered. Eaten all together—plus a swipe of the silky black bean purée—Power’s dish is cleverly reminiscent of huevos rancheros.

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3163 Larimer St., 720-432-3136

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