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Eat and Drink

Go Now: Maria Empanada

What a relief it was to walk through the doors of the newly opened Maria Empanada on South Broadway. My last experience in the space, when it was Buffalo Doughboy was so terrible, I was upset for a week. Now, however, the large interior has been transformed into an airy Argentine cafe, the staff is welcoming and cheerful, and the food—handheld pastries, tortilla espanolas, and savory tartas—is fresh and excellent. Given the bustle, it’s clear I’m not the only one thrilled Lorena Cantarovici decided to move her tiny Lakewood empanada shop to a more central, larger location.

If you order nothing else, don’t miss the savory handheld pastries that Cantarovici makes using her mother’s recipes. My favorite is the beef classico, which is stuffed with ground beef, olives, hard-boiled eggs, and peppers. The flavors remind me of picadillo, the cinnamon-y and briny Cuban comfort food. The price for this all-in-one meal is just $2.95, which makes it easy to add another version like the beautifully wrapped corn with cheese sauce or the vegan veggie with chimichurri. Or, go straight to the towering tortilla espanola, a Spanish-style omelet layered with mandolin-thin slices of potato and onion.

Tip: Kids love the fresh-squeezed orange juice, the empanadas (they get to eat with their hands), and the table inside the playhouse-like bus.

Follow food editor Amanda M. Faison on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest.

Amanda M. Faison
Amanda M. Faison
Freelance writer Amanda M. Faison spent 20 years at 5280 Magazine, 12 of those as Food Editor.

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Go Now: Maria Empanada

Maria Empanada. Photo courtesy of Maria Empanada

I discovered empanadas—savory, stuffed Latin American turnovers—in Buenos Aires, Argentina. I was there for a month, and I ate them every day. My favorite was the beef mixed with green olives and raisins, which tasted similar to Cuban picadillo. That was nearly 20 years ago but ever enchanted by the foodstuff, I still try empanadas any time I see them.

More often than not, the pastries are soggy, overworked, or haphazardly filled—in short, disappointing. Not so at the three-week-old Maria Empanada. Located on the corner of Sheridan Boulevard and Mississippi Avenue, this tiny shop offers 15-plus, freshly baked, savory flavors. There’s traditional beef (yes!), as well as mushroom with three-cheese sauce; sweet corn; blue cheese with olives and walnuts; and “tango” (which tastes like a Denver omelet without the omelet). Owner Lorena Cantarovici’s pastry is flaky, buttery, and light. Her fillings are expertly spiced and well portioned. Order a side of herby chimichurri and the spicy, Sriracha-like asado grill sauce for dipping.

Bonus: Don’t miss the alfajores—one of my all-time favorite treats. Cantarovici’s citrus-zested shortbread cookies are sandwiched with dulce de leche and rolled in shredded coconut. They look exactly like this picture.

5209 W. Mississippi Ave., Lakewood, 303-934-2221

Amanda M. Faison
Amanda M. Faison
Freelance writer Amanda M. Faison spent 20 years at 5280 Magazine, 12 of those as Food Editor.