Escargot from a food truck? “Why not?” says chef Michael DeBoer, owner of the French Twist food truck in Boulder. As far as DeBoer’s concerned, why wouldn’t frog Provençal or seared sushi-grade tuna show up on the menu?
“Louise,” as the truck is affectionately called, is a pastel yellow sensation with white picket fence siding that acts as a sweet, cottagey portal into DeBoer’s French country kitchen. Because of Boulder’s restrictive food truck policies, the truck is most often found in the business parks on the city’s east side, but that doesn’t stop it from serving some of the most flavorful dishes in town. As a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and 25 years of experience behind high-end burners, DeBoer has the kitchen cred to earn a loyal following.
The French Twist’s Croque Madame—the ultimate in grilled ham and cheese sandwiches—is the best in recent memory with thick slices of griddled bread bookending French country ham and oozing cheese. A fried egg sits on top with a ladle of savory mushroom-béchamel sauce, draped to one side. Crispy waffle-cut potatoes stacked next to the sandwich are golden brown and a rustic version of ratatouille adds a welcome hit of acidity. Equally as satisfying is DeBoer’s take on the Salade Lyonnaise (pictured). The classic combo of bitter greens, egg, bacon, and vinaigrette, is made even more tempting with tender duck confit. The greens are super fresh, and the hard-boiled egg harmonizes with the bits of crispy bacon, brunoised Swiss cheese, and caramelized potatoes and onions. With flavors pulled together by well-balanced, house-made sherry vinaigrette, this is a don’t-miss dish.
The French Twist pushes the limits of street food fare—and it’s worth getting in line for. Find out where you can catch the truck here.