Best Bites: Abejas

Restaurants in Golden tend to skew casual (burritos and beer overkill). But three-month-old bistro Abejas, which means “bees” in Spanish, has taken a more upscale approach. Chef Nicholas Ames, who previously worked at Spuntino, leans heavily on local produce and French technique. Expect precise entrées, such as seared sea scallops with braised fennel, leeks, grapefruit, and Castelvetrano olives, as well as small plates like an exceptional seasonal pork trotter terrine (pictured). Topped with a soft-cooked quail egg, a scattering of breadcrumbs, and a drizzle of curried brown butter sauce, the dish offers complex porky savoriness, toasty warmth, and sweet freshness all at once. It’s this attention to flavor and texture that’s likely to draw diners from both Golden and Denver alike. 807 13th St., Golden, 303-952-9745