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Old Major’s Answer to Lunch

Justin Brunson's fried chicken pop-up takes roost at Old Major.

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“For forever I’ve wanted to open for lunch,” Justin Brunson, chef-owner of Old Major, says. “I just didn’t know how to make it work.” That all changed on Tuesday, when Brunson launched Royal Rooster, his fried-chicken, lunchtime pop-up at Old Major.

The menu is miniscule, just four chicken sandwiches, a Caesar with chicken, a side salad, and fries. But pared down doesn’t mean dainty—not here. Each sammie comes on a “squishy bun” piled high with crispy fried chicken and tailored fixin’s: French ham, Swiss, and thyme for the French Rooster (pictured); kimchi and Kewpie mayo for the Korean Rooster; and so on.

The Classic, which layers salty chicken with tangy dill pickles, mayo, and shredded iceberg, is an excellent starting point. It’s so good, in fact, you may keep it as your standing order. If that’s the case, you’re in good company. After all, it was that combination that got Brunson seriously thinking about opening for lunch.

Royal Rooster is open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday through Friday. 3316 Tejon St., 720-420-0622

Follow food editor Amanda M. Faison on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest.

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