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Eat Cheap: Latke Love

A Littleton restaurant elevates the potato pancake.

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Anyone who visited Latke Love’s erstwhile location in Park Hill will remember the seven core menu options, all of which featured four freshly fried latkes accessorized with less than traditional (and certainly not kosher) toppings.

On my first visit to the Littleton location of Latke Love, I had trouble deciding among bowls like the Classic (a combo of cinnamon whipped cream and applesauce); the Rabbi, I’m Confused (pulled pork, Carolina barbecue sauce, pickled onions); and the Oy Vey Caliente (green chile, cheddar, fried egg). I settled on the $10 Cornwall bowl, which consists of small, golden latkes topped with tender corned-beef hash and a fried egg. Though I was tempted to order my egg cream spiked with bourbon (the restaurant has a full liquor license), I opted for the classic chocolate version, given the fact that it was, in fact, lunchtime.

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As I ate—the corned beef was tender and well-seasoned, and the latkes were praise-worthy for their creamy insides—I found myself invited into a conversation several older men were having nearby.

They mused about how this little spot had once been a sushi restaurant (and before that a burger joint) and about the weather, but mostly they talked about how delicious these darn latkes were. Although some of the old-timers bemoaned the modernity of the food (mainly, the presence of pork in firmly Jewish territory), the formula of the cozy neighborhood deli—the sort where a group of strangers invites you to sit down and chat—is timelessly satisfying. 699 W. Littleton Blvd., 303-995-9708

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