16. Stoic & Genuine

Last year 18

The maritime-inspired space of Stoic & Genuine calls to seafood lovers like a siren song. Settle in with platters of perfectly shucked, exquisitely briny oysters. From there you can go just about any direction: the behemoth fried oyster sandwich, a delicate crudo, a playful surf and turf (roasted marlin wrapped in pork loin). Some diners may not love Jennifer Jasinski and Jorel Pierce’s occasional dip into avant-garde plating (such as the halved Georges Bank scallop served alongside a crescent of chanterelle and corn custard), but no matter your preferences in presentation, the quality of the seafood is uniformly astonishing. Union Station, 1701 Wynkoop St., 303-640-3474, stoicandgenuine.com

Order this: paella moderna with house-made sausage, rice “socarrat,” and smoked-tomato broth

(Read 5280’s review of Stoic & Genuine from the June 2015 issue.)