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I had my first empanada in 1991, when I spent a month in Buenos Aires, Argentina. There, the savory pastry pockets (think gourmet, crescent-shape packages) are the snack of choice, and they show up at lunch, at afternoon tea, and in between meals. I was hooked.
Several years later, empanadas began landing on local menus, but few did the Argentinean staple justice. Now, along with Buenos Aires Pizzeria and Sabor Latino, the month-old Empanadas Argentinas cart on the 16th Street Mall satiates my cravings.
The cart’s menu board offers four varieties: beef, spicy chicken, spinach and white sauce, and ham and cheese. The day I visited, only the spinach version was left, so I bought one and walked back to the office savoring the flaky, piping-hot dough and the rich filling. The simple, satisfying nature of the pastry—bolstered by my memories of meals in Buenos Aires—will bring me back again and again.
Bargain Bite: Five bucks buys you two empanadas and a drink.
While everyone else spends their lunch hour in line at the new Pinkberry location on 16th Street and Glenarm Place, zip inside Amore Gelato for a scoop of silky gelato. The locally owned shop, which is located at 16th and Welton streets, also dishes up soft-serve frozen yogurt and refreshing sorbetto.
But it’s the gelato that has me going back. Creamy and light (gelato is lower in fat than traditional ice cream), Amore’s offerings are the best I’ve had outside of Italy. Flavors are made daily, and they change regularly. Given the chance, don’t miss the nutty, toasted almond or the decadent Mama Mia, sweet cream blended with ribbons of sweet-cherry purée and chocolate chips.
Within seconds of ringing the bell at Chickee’s Lil Kitchen take-out window, which is next to a barber shop on 44th Avenue and Zuni Street, owner Harriett Sanchez slides open the window. She hands you a laminated menu and waits patiently as you scan the offerings: a collection of Mexican eats (tamales, burritos, tacos) and Louisiana-style cuisine (gumbo, red beans and rice).
Order what you fancy, and then ask about the unusual intersection of cuisines. Sanchez will explain she’s from Louisiana, while her husband has Latin roots. But make no mistake: There’s no fusion food here, just hot, spicy dishes from two different worlds.
Case in point: The tamale lunch (two smothered pork tamales, Spanish rice, and refried beans) is spot on for flavor and texture—and fire. Sanchez makes her green chile using dynamite chiles from Brighton, and they’ve got enough kick to make you thankful for the fresh, homemade tortilla and the refried beans that help dull the flames.
I can hardly wait to go back for the breakfast burritos (Chickee’s opens at 6 a.m. Tuesday through Saturday, and 8 a.m. on Sunday) and the gumbo.
Bonus: Sanchez learned to cook Mexican food, including gorditas (small, fat, home-style tortillas) from her husband’s family. Order one with your meal, or take home a dozen (call 24 hours ahead) for $3.
With so many products—everything from caffeinated beef jerky to bottles of cognac—coming across my desk, I see and taste a little bit of everything. But it’s unusual that I discover something I enjoy enough to A) write about and B) purchase for my own kitchen.
That said, a sample of Teaspoon Willie’s showed up recently, and ever since I’ve found myself steadily making my way through the bottle. Appropriately named Everything Sauce, I’ve found that the tomato-y blend peps up scrambled eggs, Bloody Marys, turkey sandwiches, barbecue chicken, tacos, sloppy Joes, and even salad dressing.
As far as I can tell, the savory applications are limitless, and each time I taste the slightly fiery, umami-rich sauce, I attempt to unlock the flavor profile (Denver-based owner Willie Ingram keeps the recipe a closely guarded secret). Best of all, the product, which is made with QAI-certified organic herbs and spices, is gluten-free, fat-free, and devoid of creepy things like MSG, high-fructose corn syrup, and preservatives.
Mark Your Calendar: The first-annual Teaspoon Willie’s Cook Off takes place August 28 (6 to 10 p.m.) at the Art Network Gallery. Tickets are $20 and proceeds benefit SAME Café. Purchase tickets at teaspoonwillies.com.
In an attempt to beat the heat, I’ve been eating ice cream at every turn. This means dipping into pints from local companies such as Sweet Action, Bliss Organic Ice Cream, Red Trolley, and Little Man. So many flavors tempt me, but I keep going back to Bliss Organic’s invigorating ginger.
A scoop tastes lighter than typical ice cream, while capturing all the zest and spice of the root. What’s different here—from, say, Boulder Ice Cream’s ginger-cream flavor—is there are no sharp edges, no lingering heat. Just unmatched purity.
Wooden Spoon Cafe & Bakery in Highland may be just under a month old, but it’s quickly shaping up to be a neighborhood staple. Located across from Duo Restaurant, the cozy space is home to Jason and Jeanette Burgett’s baked goods: fresh bread, pastries, and savory breakfast items. Baguette sandwiches (don’t miss the roasted turkey with salsa verde) and salads also dot the menu.
After my first visit, I brought home an assortment of goodies from the pastry case—most notably, the tangy lemon meringue tartlette and the strawberry frangipane. Both are delicious examples of the Burgetts’ skills, but the frangipane won my heart.
Each bite of the classic French dessert, made with almond-paste filling that puffs up when baked, distills the essence of summer with the flavors of jammy, ripe strawberries. Hedged with a chewy, nutty crust and filling, the treat is more cake-like than conventional tart. If there is a flaw, it’s that the tart isn’t big enough—especially after I shared it with my husband and daughter. Next time I’ll get one just for me.
Upon reading the July issue (Top of the Town), you may have noticed the sidebar “Above & Beyond” on page 87. It was here that we named five customer-service rock stars—a handful of people and places going the extra mile to make sure you’re taken care of, every single time. One of those mentioned was John Manwaring, a fantastically talented mixologist at Beatrice & Woodsley.
But in mid-June (when our July issue was at press), Manwaring left the Broadway restaurant and is now slinging drinks at Root Down alongside the venerable Anika Zappe.
Even so, if you wander into Beatrice & Woodsley looking for Manwaring, the cocktails (mixed by other, very friendly bartenders) go down just as easily. Don’t miss sipping the refreshing Bloodhound, with Ransom Old Tom Gin, sweet and dry vermouth, a dash of grapefruit juice, and muddled strawberries.
The much-anticipated Euclid Hall Bar and Kitchen—Jennifer Jasinski and Beth Gruitch’s (Rioja and Bistro Vendôme) beer hall—is slated to open in early August, but I walked the space yesterday.
The duo has taken a cave of a building (a former Martini Ranch location) and given it a sense of light and air—and mountain views. Once opened, the historic two-level structure will hold an estimated 130 seats, plus two bars—one upstairs, one downstairs—and an open kitchen. (Keep tabs on construction via Facebook.)
Chef de cuisine Jorel Pierce will man the day-to-day operations, and he and Jasinski have worked closely on the à la carte menu. Look for beer, keg wine from the Infinite Monkey Theorem, and tavern-style eats along the lines of house-made sausages, schnitzels (can’t wait to try the chicken and waffles version), and riffs on poutine, the Canadian mash-up of fries, brown gravy, and cheese curds.
Even dessert gets the beer-hall treatment, with car-bomb floats, banana-funnel-cake fritters, and waffle ice cream sandwiches.
Trend Watch: Jennifer Jasinski’s bretzel dough (created for Euclid Hall’s brat burger and the fried pies) is in keeping with a recent New York Times report on the soft pretzel trend. The comfort food is popping up elsewhere too: The soon-to-open Park & Co. (Park Burger’s second, more expanded location at East 17th Avenue and Pennsylvania Street) has a soft pretzel on the menu, and Snooze has a pretzel roll in the works. We also grubbed on Matt Selby’s (Vesta Dipping Grill) foie gras “hot dog” in a pretzel bun at the last 50 Top dinner.
A holiday weekend wouldn’t be complete without brunch. And for that we recommend Gallop Cafe, on the corner of West 32nd Avenue and Zuni Street in Highland. For the last six years, owners Glen Baker and David Grafke have run this finely tuned spot, first focusing on coffee, pastries, and sandwiches, and over time expanding into full-blown brunch, lunch, and even dinner.
But brunch has recently captured my attention—most notably, the Soul of Autumn Benedict. Don’t be deterred by the fall-ish name; every bite is bright and sunny.
Dreamy hollandaise and poached eggs top house-made crumpets (a cross between an English muffin and a scone)—and then things get really exciting. Poached kale with brown butter, sage-roasted butternut squash, walnuts, and golden raisins cover the eggs, while the hollandaise is garnished with crusty nibs of smoked pork-loin rillettes.
Top it all off with a spicy, schooner-size Bloody Mary, and call it day.
Most folks who frequent Mangiamo Pronto!, a bustling Italian cafe on Wazee Street, do so at lunch. The midday menu tempts with thin-crust pizzas, such as the cotto, and crusty panini, like the acci (stuffed with crispy pancetta, rib-eye, roasted peppers, fried egg, provolone, and spicy aïoli).
But for all the lunches (several times a month), I only just discovered Mangiamo’s dinner service. And it’s even better than lunch. Pizzas and salads—don’t miss the pomodoro salad, with tomatoes, basil, and aged Montasio cheese—still hold a place on the menu, but it’s the pasta that really impresses. Noodles are hand-rolled, delicate, and delightfully eggy.
Try the E’s, with black linguine, shrimp, baby arugula, spicy garlic oil, and Parmesan. Or the rich Morto, with crispy pancetta, fried egg, Parmesan butter, and linguine. Even better, ask chef-owner Enrique Guerrero if he’s offering the special: a decadent tangle of fettuccine with roasted porcini, Parmesan, and black truffle shavings.
Bonus: Order the rosemary gelato for a refreshing and creamy end to the meal.
Finally, after months of waiting, Congress Park residents have gotten a taste of Sienna Wine Bar & Small Plates, which opened on East 12th Avenue almost two weeks ago.
When we stopped by for a quick bite, the space—marked by exposed brick, colorful walls, and a dripping chandelier—was busy with neighbors sipping wine and beer and nibbling on small plates.
We joined in, ordering glasses of dry rosé and food-friendly Grüner Veltliner before settling on the colorful Sienna salad. The flavors of the mixed greens and fragrant basil tossed with creamy chèvre, plump blueberries, cherry tomatoes, and crunchy Marcona almonds are ideal for a summer’s night. Next time, I’ll add the cheese plate or the pizza for a more filling snack.
Bonus: Don’t miss the creamsicle sundae, a homespun combination of creamy orange frozen custard topped with Mandarin oranges and homemade oatmeal cookies.
Last week, the New York Times reported a rise in the popularity of shaved ice, a refreshing, summery treat loved around the globe. Denver’s icy offerings (which are more of the Italian ice and snow cone varieties) are more limited than New York’s, but they’re still tasty.
Along with the raspados carts that dot Federal Boulevard, those looking to cool off can head to Marco’s Coal-Fired Pizzeria for Italian ice (a sorbet-like frozen dessert). Owner Mark Dym recently added four flavors to the menu. The zesty lemon is the most popular, but also look for cherry, chocolate, and the kid-friendly rainbow (a mix of lemon, cherry, and blue raspberry).
Just off Santa Fe Drive, Interstate Kitchen & Bar takes its ice seriously. The bar crew turns out frosty mint juleps, fruit-flavored “torpedos” from the slushie machine (mixed with vodka), and snow cones in adult flavors such as the bourbon Manhattan. They also freeze pans of water so as to hand-chip ice chunks—which co-owner Joey Newman calls “whiskey diamonds”—for those ordering whiskey on the rocks.
Last summer, we hit up the New Orleans SnoBall Shack on the 16th Street Mall, but it’s nearly July and we’re still waiting for it to appear. Stay tuned.
I’m always on the hunt for local, farm-fresh eggs. Last week, I was surprised to discover cartons of beautiful, multi-colored eggs from Grant Family Farms at Whole Foods Market in Cherry Creek. That got me thinking: Where else (outside of farmers’ markets and CSAs) can I find these locally produced jewels of the kitchen?
Turns out there are a few more options.
Marczyk Fine Foods‘ sells Penny’s Free Range Eggs, which are delivered from Nunn, Colorado, every other week. (If you go, bring your own carton; loose eggs are cheaper.)
Each Friday, the Truffle Cheese Shop receives dozens of eggs from the Ugly Goat Milk Company in Elizabeth, Colorado. These eggs are as fresh as can be: They’re collected the same week, if not the same day, of delivery. Same goes for the Grant Family Farms’ eggs sold at In Season Local Market.
The farm-fresh eggs may cost more (close to $5 a dozen instead of $3), but the difference in taste and quality is tremendous. Crack one, and you’ll find a yolk that appears more orange than yellow (thanks to the chicken’s diet of grass and bugs) and whites that stand at attention. Fry it up with a little butter, and enjoy one of life’s greatest pleasures.
Marczyk Fine Foods, 770 E. 17th Ave., 303-894-9499
The Truffle Cheese Shop, 2906 E. Sixth Ave., 303-322-7363
In Season Local Market, 3210 Wyandot St., 720-282-4834
For anyone tiring of the burger trend, the almost three-week-old Eco-Burger will renew your interest. The Cherry Creek shop (from David Pellegrin and Rebekah Donovan Pellegrin, who also own the nearby Q Worldly Barbeque) dishes a finely tuned menu.
Not surprisingly, the grass-fed beef topped with goodies such as prosciutto and smoked blue cheese are menu stars, but the alternatives are just as worthy. The seared ahi tuna steak burger comes dressed with a crunchy carrot and daikon sprout slaw, and the black-bean burger exhibits texture and spice thanks to salsa, chipotle sour cream, and a crispy, seared outside.
Whatever you choose, top off your meal with the hand-cut fries, tossed with sea salt and cracked pepper (pay the extra $1 for the creamy blue cheese dipping sauce) and a glass of the red sangría.
If you didn’t catch the Steuben’s Truck at Tuesday’s Civic Center Eats, here’s what you have to look forward to next week: Steubie Snacks.
These little bites—braised pork shoulder, deep-fried, then dredged in powdered sugar—are like candy. Seriously. As Josh Wolkon, owner of Vesta Dipping Grill, Steuben’s, and the truck, says, “We wanted something signature to serve off the truck that met the ’street food’ criteria”—hand-held, simple, etc.
Even so, chef Brandon Biederman came up with the nibbles almost by accident. While experimenting with a new braise, he cooked pork four or five ways but something was missing: “So being me, I threw them in the fryer, asked a sous [chef] to grab some powdered sugar, and ‘pig crack’ was made.”
Tell me a new bakery has opened, and I’m there—especially if it promises cake. Such is the case at Kim & Jake’s Cakes, a month-old Boulder spot that specializes in the pastry. I recently went for a slice and left with three—plus a moon pie (which, while excellent, has more in common with a whoopie pie).
Owners Kim and Jake Rosenbarger bake their cakes daily, and at any given time there are five or so for the picking. With flavors as classic as carrot and as creative as strawberry margarita and dark-n-stormy, I couldn’t pick just one.
The strawberry-marg, made with fresh-squeezed lime juice and strawberry purée, is a dead ringer for the Rio Grande Mexican Restaurant’s cocktail (which, according to Jake, was his muse). The caramely dark-n-stormy is delightfully boozy, with a hint of ginger and a zip of lime. The liquor in both cakes manages to counter our dry-as-a-bone climate. (Mental note: Bake next cake with liquor.)
Once you find Kim & Jake’s, which is located in the back corner of a strip mall, you’ll be happy you did. I only hope the bakery will put tables and chairs in their courtyard for better cake-eating enjoyment.
Bonus: On Wednesdays, from 5 to 6 p.m., stop by for hump-day happy hour, when slices and cupcakes are a dollar off.
A dreary Monday morning calls for just one thing: A tall cup of strong coffee. For that I head to Crema Coffeehouse, a tiny, edgy spot on north Larimer Street.
Here, owner Noah Price brews Novo Coffee, the locally based label that inspires a cult-like following. If you’re lucky, the Aceh from Sumatra will be brewing (and if not, request it). A heady tonic, your cup will hint of molasses, even cola—and needs no milk or sugar.
Full disclosure:Price is my cousin, but his dedication to coffee and distilling its nuances, as well as his mission to make Crema Denver’s version of Stumptown Coffee Roasters, would have won me over regardless of family ties.
Barbecue is a touchy subject. Fanatics find a style—Kansas City, Memphis, North Carolina, what have you—that suits them, and then they look no further. The message is, “Don’t mess with my ’cue.” But let’s be honest: Food is meant to be explored, expanded, and riffed upon.
Oinks! BBQ, off Kearney Street and East Colfax Avenue, is all about innovation. The six-week-old shop offers chicken, pork, brisket, and ribs (even tofu) that are slow-smoked and served ready for a dousing in one of the house-made sauces: Texas, Carolina Mustard, Vinegar, or 9 Volt Hot. Here, no one will think twice if you (for shame) squirt both the sweet Texas and the tangy Carolina on the same bite of tender, smoky brisket.
Even more of a departure: Oinks’ meats are antibiotic-free and sustainable whenever possible, and a handful of side dishes aim to be a bit healthier. Along with the usual lineup of fried okra and baked beans, better-for-you options such as spicy green-bean salad are also available. The side is nice and fresh, but if you’re eating barbecue, I’m guessing you’re not counting calories.
Which is good, because you don’t want to miss the creamy sweet-potato-and-bacon salad. Oinks’ take on classic potato salad has huge chucks of sweet potato, meaty bites of bacon, and is blessedly light on mayonnaise.
Oinks may not be traditional, but I appreciate that the eatery doesn’t take itself too seriously—all the while dishing up barbecue worth crossing town for.
Last week we discovered yet another reason to frequent Elway’s Downtown: sushi. Starting at 4 p.m. each day, chef Jake Rand (who spent a total of seven years at Sushi Den) works his skills at the bar.
Rather than stocking the full range of fish, Rand offers a more boutique experience with six of the most popular types. Even so, he says there’s something for every type of sushi lover.
Highlights include the lightly seared Hokkaido scallops. In this dish, six disks of seared scallop, dressed with fresh lemon juice, a hint of truffle oil, and micro cilantro, sit atop English cucumber. Snap one up—no need for soy sauce—for a refreshing summer bite.
Bonus: Check out Elway’s Sushi Sundays for two-for-one sashimi deals and a $20 tasting menu that includes miso soup, edamame, choice of roll and nigiri sushi, as well as bottled beer or glass of select sake.
1881 Curtis St. (inside the Ritz-Carlton Denver), 303-312-3107
It seems as if summer has officially arrived—95 degrees and all. Which means we’re headed to Cuba Cuba to cool off with Mojitos. The Golden Triangle-located favorite, which smells brightly of freshly muddled mint and lime, makes the city’s most potent and refreshing highball.
The spot also mixes souped-up varieties—blackberry, pineapple, and strawberry among them—but we’re partial to the traditional blend of mint-infused white rum, sugar, and soda. Either way, take advantage of Mojito happy hour, which runs Monday through Thursday, from 5 to 6:15 p.m.
Bonus: Ward off hunger with an order of the plantain chips (we can’t get enough of the zesty garlic-lime-olive-oil mojo) and the hearts of palm and avocado–studded insalata Cubana.
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