Billy's Inn, the old-school bar at 44th and Lowell, has gotten a lot of press since reopening a few weeks ago. The huge selection of tequila, a glossy, revamped space, and a welcoming neighborhood vibe are all things to celebrate. But what about the menu? After a gluttonous lunch, I deem the eats tasty. It's bar food, for sure, but there are some surprises, like homemade Kaiser rolls for burgers and rustic ciabatta bread for sandwiches, freshly made guacamole with hunks of ripe avocado, and bison burgers that can be subbed for hamburger patties. Quesadillas--usually a throw-away menu item--are ample, and stuffed with gooey cheese, big pieces of chicken, and salsa fresca. My favorite dish: the kicky Santa Fe bison burger, topped with pepper jack cheese, roasted poblano chiles, and onions, served with pipin' hot fries. All this, plus specials that change daily and include deals on peel-and-eat shrimp, wings, and drinks. The cold beer, balanced bloody marias (Bloody Marys made with tequila), and refreshing margs are worth a visit in their own right. 4403 Lowell Blvd., 303-455-9733