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By: Carol W. Maybach

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Posted: October 13, 2009 9:21 AM

Tangier Moroccan Brings Moorish Ambience Back to Boulder

Inside Tangier Moroccan Cuisine, a heady aroma of spices combines with colorful tribal carpets and Moroccan details. The scene gives me hope: Not since Mataam Fez operated in Boulder (in 2006) has a restaurant sported such an authentic floor-to-ceiling vibe. When it comes to cuisine, however, the four-month-old Tangier doesn't yet stand up to the food once heralded at Boulder's beloved Fez. Still, there's promise. Chef-owner Khalil Ben Mellah delivers delicate chicken bastillas (a savory pie encased in phyllo dough), richly flavored lamb barkouk studded with caramelized prunes and roasted almonds, and tender lemon-saffron chicken m'qualli. What's missing, on occasion, are consistently cooked vegetables and robust soups. Even so, reserve a floor-level table (or a higher four-top) for tasteful belly dancing (weekends only), sweet mint tea, and heavenly baklava topped with chocolate sauce. 3070 28th St., Boulder, 720-621-9291
Comments

This review reminds me of those poor saps in Kansas who dislike authentic Mexican cuisine because they're used to really bad Mexican food. Frankly, I found Mataam Fez Boulder to be rather like Casa Bonita--great atmosphere and mediocre food. The Denver Mataam Fez is better than the late Boulder version. But the food at Tangier puts both to shame. This review is way off-base.

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