Tangier Moroccan Brings Moorish Ambience Back to Boulder

October 13 2009, 9:21 AM
Inside Tangier Moroccan Cuisine, a heady aroma of spices combines with colorful tribal carpets and Moroccan details. The scene gives me hope: Not since Mataam Fez operated in Boulder (in 2006) has a restaurant sported such an authentic floor-to-ceiling vibe. When it comes to cuisine, however, the four-month-old Tangier doesn't yet stand up to the food once heralded at Boulder's beloved Fez. Still, there's promise. Chef-owner Khalil Ben Mellah delivers delicate chicken bastillas (a savory pie encased in phyllo dough), richly flavored lamb barkouk studded with caramelized prunes and roasted almonds, and tender lemon-saffron chicken m'qualli. What's missing, on occasion, are consistently cooked vegetables and robust soups. Even so, reserve a floor-level table (or a higher four-top) for tasteful belly dancing (weekends only), sweet mint tea, and heavenly baklava topped with chocolate sauce. 3070 28th St., Boulder, 720-621-9291