I've long been a fan of chef Frank Bonanno and his quartet of Denver restaurants, especially when looking for a place to celebrate a special occasion. But Bonanno also comes through when I'm craving a platter of something warm and comforting. My latest favorite: the slow-roasted suckling pig offered Sunday nights at Osteria Marco. Bonanno prepares the tender, shredded pork differently each week, with side dishes ranging from rich to rustic. I enjoy the pork served with a simple side of sautéed garlic spinach and roasted fingerling potatoes, and I like it equally well when presented atop a bed of risotto mixed with bitter leeks, tart apple bits, and creamy goat cheese. Crispy cracklins (bits of fried pork skin) top the dish and give it a nice bit of crunch. Wine tip: Both preparations pair well with the 2006 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico. 1453 Larimer St., 303-534-5855