Ever since Il Fornaio vacated its Wazee Street digs, we've been watching to see who would take over the downtown space. Just two weeks ago, Big Game Restaurant and Lounge, an upscale sports bar from restaurateurs Jeffrey and Zach Chodorow and Dan Smith, threw open its doors. Aside from the lengthy cocktail list, army of TVs, and roster of games (Wii, PlayStation, pingpong), there's also a widespread menu. We quickly scanned the menu---sliders, graham cracker–crusted calamari, mussels, flatbread pizzas, Colorado lamb chops, and even sushi rolls---before homing in on the french fries. Like Jonesy's EatBar across town, Big Game takes this bar snack seriously. The eight homemade varieties range from wacky (sweet-potato fries topped with marshmallow and candied pecans) to creative (Old Bay seasoning and aïoli) to timeless (melted cheese and brown gravy). We opted for the Poutine---the Canadian classic of fresh cheese curds and gravy. The plate arrived piled high, ladled with peppery white gravy and sprinkled with spongy cheese curds. We made quick work of the dish and came away with just one suggestion: Big Game should consider offering a fry sampler platter where you can mix and match different varieties. 1625 Wazee St., 303-623-1630