Since learning that chef Olav Peterson left Bistro One to open his own place (the pending Bittersweet), I've been anxious to return to the bistro, which 5280 named a Best New Restaurant in 2008, to take stock of changes. My first visit came over the weekend.

I dined for brunch because I've always enjoyed Bistro One's morning dishes, but this time the eats were merely adequate. With the exception of the well-seasoned cheddar-drop biscuits and sausage gravy, breakfast was unmemorable. A sad- and deflated-looking eggs Benedict gave way to an enticing dish of smoked shrimp and grits, which, I discovered two bites in, lacked any real texture. What was most perplexing, though, was the single blackberry that adorned the French toast—the menu promised "fresh berries"—and when I asked for a side of fruit, I was told all fruit had been removed from the menu. Really?

Meanwhile, Peterson's Bittersweet is under construction in the former home of Gary's Auto Service, along East Alameda Avenue. The "farm-in-the-city" venture, which opens in early December, is surrounded by more than 500 square feet of garden space. Peterson will work his crops—fruits, veggies, herbs, and edible flowers—into his artisanal menu. Look for hand-crafted food—including house-made breads, pasta, and cured meats—with French roots and Norwegian and avant-garde flair. 

Bistro One, 1294 S. Broadway, 720-974-0602

Bittersweet, 500 E. Alameda Ave.