If you stop by the Squeaky Bean for lunch, don't be swayed by the tuna conserva (one of the menu's most popular—and delicious—items). Instead, branch out and order the Mundos torta, chef Max MacKissock's riff on the classic Mexican sandwich. Though there's a lot going on—baked egg with sautéed onions and squash blossoms, a Mexican white-bean paste, Mexican Munster cheese, roasted poblanos, avocado, and chile de arbol sauce, all piled on a soft hoagie roll and served with house-made cilantro crema—the flavors and textures meld beautifully.

I ordered the dish because it sounded unusual—and frankly, overly ambitious. Boy, was I wrong. The combination of buttery egg, rustic bean paste, and fiery chile de arbol had me at first taste. Despite myself, I ate every single bite—including my side salad.

Did You Know: MacKissock says the torta is named after a former employee named Mundo because he hated making the tedious dish.

3301 Tejon St., 303-284-0053