Blog

By: Carol W. Maybach

Category: Table Talk

Posted: October 19, 2010 11:30 AM

Work in Progress: The Hole

I’d been disciplined all week, faithfully grabbing my fresh, local produce from the farmers’ markets and even watching my carb intake. But by Saturday night, I wanted to splurge.

It was with that mindset that I strolled into The Hole, a coffee, doughnut, and beer concept that, frankly, seemed too good to resist. I was anxious to see if chef Jessica Hazard had truly created the perfect "drunkin’ doughnut."

After seeing the nearly empty bins of what should have been a virtual smorgasbord of doughnut options, I began to have my doubts. Although the remaining flavors looked pillowy and delicious, a bite of each proved otherwise. Because the treats varied only in their glazes and fillings, even the fruit varieties tasted flat. Ditto the Party Girl version: The multicolored sprinkles offered color but no real pizzazz. My hopes were high for the Mmm Bacon concoction, but once the nicely cooked strips of bacon were nibbled off the top, it tasted like any other doughnut.

Sandwiches are also served on sliced doughnuts, resulting in an over-the-top sweetness that detracts rather than adds. One exception is the maple-bacon sandwich, with a combination of bacon, egg, cheddar, and a maple-syrup doughnut, which offers a mouthful of decadence in every bite.

Tip: Save your calories for the hot truffle (fresh ganache hot chocolate) with a shot of peppermint schnapps or the straightforward, homemade waffle.

3877 Tennyson St., 720-379-6210

Comments

The Hole, Denver

Honestly I love the doughnuts, food, and ambiance I've had at the hole, and I've had a variety of doughnuts that each had a unique taste--the chocolate-bacon doughnut is AMAZING, but obviously ceases to be a "bacon" doughnut if you pick off and eat all the bacon before eating the  doughnut.  Also, Im not sure what sort of "pizzazz" you can expect from a sprinkle doughnut, but the one I had was tasty and upheld my expectations.  When I first imagined a doughnut sandwich, I too was weary of the sweetness of the doughnut being overbearing, but the doughnuts on the sandwiches I have had were suprisingly un-sweet (very different from the other doughnut selection) and allowed for the other flavors of the sandwiches to come through nicely.  Overall, i'm glad that the Hole moved in and excited to go back for more flavors!

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