Work in Progress: The Hole

October 19 2010, 11:30 AM

I’d been disciplined all week, faithfully grabbing my fresh, local produce from the farmers’ markets and even watching my carb intake. But by Saturday night, I wanted to splurge.

It was with that mindset that I strolled into The Hole, a coffee, doughnut, and beer concept that, frankly, seemed too good to resist. I was anxious to see if chef Jessica Hazard had truly created the perfect "drunkin’ doughnut."

After seeing the nearly empty bins of what should have been a virtual smorgasbord of doughnut options, I began to have my doubts. Although the remaining flavors looked pillowy and delicious, a bite of each proved otherwise. Because the treats varied only in their glazes and fillings, even the fruit varieties tasted flat. Ditto the Party Girl version: The multicolored sprinkles offered color but no real pizzazz. My hopes were high for the Mmm Bacon concoction, but once the nicely cooked strips of bacon were nibbled off the top, it tasted like any other doughnut.

Sandwiches are also served on sliced doughnuts, resulting in an over-the-top sweetness that detracts rather than adds. One exception is the maple-bacon sandwich, with a combination of bacon, egg, cheddar, and a maple-syrup doughnut, which offers a mouthful of decadence in every bite.

Tip: Save your calories for the hot truffle (fresh ganache hot chocolate) with a shot of peppermint schnapps or the straightforward, homemade waffle.

3877 Tennyson St., 720-379-6210