Go Now: Edge Restaurant & Bar

November 2010

All too often, hotel restaurants get a bad rap. Sure, there are many that simply aren't worth your time, but then you have eateries such as Panzano or Restaurant Kevin Taylor that should be sought out. Edge Restaurant & Bar, a progressive American steak house located in the brand new Four Seasons Hotel Denver, is one of those special spots.

The space itself is stunning, filled with light, glass, rich wood, and brilliant art installations. Tables are impeccably spaced and set with gleaming glassware, heavy flatware, and slate-colored linen napkins. It all feels upscale without being stuffy. So goes the service, which works hard to overcome the typical impression of steak house dining.

The menu is just as compelling, with thoughtful dishes that include the excellent grilled Rocky Mountain venison and wild blueberry sausage with porcini gnocchi. If the portion had been bigger, I would have happily eaten this for dinner.

But once our entrées—a gorgeous bone-in filet and crispy-skinned Jidori chicken—arrived, I was glad for the room. Per our server's suggestion, we paired the filet with the tangy and meaty "Simon" steak sauce (named for executive chef Simon Purvis) and the chicken with the sweet mustard-seed chutney. Both were right on (though I also enjoyed dragging bites of tender chicken through the steak sauce).

The highlights of the evening were the sides. Not simply the offerings, but the portion sizes. While most steak houses send out an entire head of broccoli or a mountain of mashed potatoes that could serve six, Edge's sides are small enough for a single individual. My favorite of the bunch was the smooth, but not cloying, sweet-potato mash adorned with candied, crushed chestnuts.

Because of the judicious potions, there's room for dessert. Not to be missed is the Edge's take on baked Alaska. This often frumpy dessert gets a redux here: A thin layer of flourless chocolate cake wraps a nugget of Bailey's ice cream while an outer shell of meringue and marshmallow gets a quick toast in the oven. Served with boozy Wolfberger cherries and a spun-chocolate garnish, the perfectly portioned dessert ended the evening with flourish.

FYI: If you base your dining decisions off of a restaurant's website, prepare to find Edge's on the kitschy side. This is unfortunate because it undermines the elegance and refinement you'll find inside its doors.

1111 14th St., 303-389-3343