My favorite time to dine at Il Posto is on a cold winter's night. That's when I most take solace in chef Andrea Frizzi's house-made pastas or, on Wednesdays, his osso buco milanese.

But last week I forewent the heartier dishes in favor of the branzino special. The sea bass arrived with grilled Meyer lemon, wide strips of crispy turnips, and tiny cubes of mortadella—all of which imparted fresh but rustic notes. I finished dinner satisfied but not stuffed, with plenty of room for something sweet.

Frizzi's dessert list always tempts with choices, but my go-to is the donut-like bombolini, a dish we called out in our December Sweet Escapes story.

Bonus: Make a reservation for Il Posto's traditional Christmas Eve 7 Fishes tasting menu dinner ($49; $69 with wine pairings).

2011 E. 17th Ave., 303-394-0100