JuanCarlos Wong II, chef-owner of Teleras Deli Mexicana, was determined to bring the seductive flavors of Mexico City’s street food to Denver. Last June, Wong turned a Las Tortugas franchise into one of the most authentic torta shops in town.

To create his own Mexican-inspired equivalent of a towering submarine sandwich, Wong begins with buttery, oval-shape telera bread, toasted golden-brown on the griddle. He then tops the sandwiches with a host of ingredients—from house-made chipotle or lime mayonnaise and mole to tender, roasted meats and fresh vegetables.

The La Poblana chicken mole torta gets my vote: It stars tender chicken bathed in smoky mole piled high with tomato, onion, avocado, and queso fresco. Another hit is the Sinaloa, with thick slices of roasted pork chop, grilled steak, and melted Oaxaca cheese. Or, if you're seriously hungry, order La Mamalona—a whopper of a sandwich packed with every ingredient in the house. Whatever you choose, wash it down with an agua fresca in strawberry, pineapple, watermelon, cantaloupe, or mango flavors.

Tip: Although quality here is top-notch, service can be exceptionally slow, so order ahead if you’re in a hurry.

810 E. 88^th Ave., Ste. 100, Thornton