There's something wonderfully indulgent about takeout—restaurant cuisine from the comfort of your couch. But, as well all know, not all dishes fare well on the drive home.

Not so in the case of Parallel Seventeen, the French-Vietnamese bistro on the corner of Franklin Street and East 17th Avenue. Upon unpacking my order, I discovered the bountiful appetizer plate (known as the P17 Sampler) had smartly been left unassembled. In one box: a collection of grilled lemongrass beef, pork, and chicken strips. In another: fresh, cool, rice vermicelli noodles; pickled daikon and carrots; and fresh herbs and lettuce. And in a third: uncooked rice-paper wraps.

After dunking the rice paper in hot water, the wraps were ready to assemble. The result: just-made restaurant freshness at home. Rounding out the dish was a selection of pre-made but still crispy vegetable and pork spring rolls.

Tip: If appetizers aren't enough of a meal, give the beef short rib a try. The tender and unique coffee-braised rib comes with a round, slightly sweet rice cake and caramelized gai lan.

1600 E. 17th Ave., 303-399-0988