I first dined at Colt & Gray not long after it opened. I was immediately impressed by the understated elegance of the space, the mixologists behind the bar, and the diverse menu. But over the course of several visits, my enthusiasm dimmed for the simple reason that many of the dishes were oversalted (see our June review.) A recent visit, however, has convinced me that chef-owner Nelson Perkins has fine-tuned the fare.

Our meal began with sautéed Brussels sprouts, which arrived nestled in a small white bowl with crunchy, toasted walnuts, bright and tangy bits of preserved lemon, and the subtle heat of red pepper flakes. From there, we moved on to the frisée salad, perfectly dressed in a light mustard-thyme vinaigrette and served with chewy mushrooms and a crispy, panko-coated poached egg. For the entrée, we opted for the seared pink arctic char, served with roasted potatoes and a drizzle of bittersweet sorrel sauce. In each dish, the flavors were not only well-balanced but rave-worthy.

Tip: For a fun start to the evening, let a Colt & Gray mixologist custom-make a cocktail based on your preferences.

1553 Platte St., #120, 303-477-1447