Last night found me down south at the new Marco's Coal-Fired Pizzeria at the Vallagio at Inverness, just off I-25 and East Dry Creek Road.

The month-old spot feels like a grow-up version of Mark Dym's downtown outpost. The colors, the vibe, and the energy are the same, but there's more space and a sprawling patio. The menu is identical, with the exception of two fried pizzas.

The savory margherita fried pie (soon to be a permanent option) is currently only available on special, but the pizza dolce is always offered for dessert. And it's worth saving room for it. We've written about the dish before, but down at the Vallagio location, it gets a boost in the fryer.

It begins with pizza dough fried in palm oil at 400 degrees—hot enough that the dough doesn't become greasy—and then it's smeared with sweetened ricotta, drizzled with honey, and scattered with toasted almonds. It comes to the table as a carnival-like thrill (think an elevated funnel cake) with an Italian bent. Chewy, sweet, and crunchy, behold a perfect, if not fancy, after-dinner treat.

10111 Inverness Main St., Englewood, 303-790-9000; 2129 Larimer St., 303-296-7000