With new restaurants constantly opening around town, it (unfortunately) becomes too easy to overlook tried-and-true favorites like Solera Restaurant, Goose Sorensen's warm neighborhood eatery on East Colfax Avenue. I decided to remedy that by stopping in for an evening bite.

Happily, each dish carried the compositional excellence I've always associated with Solera. The white-truffle mac and cheese appetizer had just the right ratio of cheese to truffle and wasn't overly filling. The butterleaf salad was cold and crispy, and it nicely supported the smooth and mild champagne vinaigrette. The pork loin with cheddar mashed potatoes was light and comforting—perfect for a cool spring evening.

Sadly, all this excellence was tarnished by the abysmal service. Our server was forgetful ("Uh,  sorry, why did I come to your table?"); he delivered the wrong salad; he never checked back to see how we were doing; and, worst of all, we waited at least 25 minutes between courses with nary an explanation.

If you're seeking a stellar meal on the east end of town, Solera is—and always has been—an excellent choice. Just allow yourself some extra time and patience.

5410 E. Colfax Ave., 303-388-8429