I know it's heresy to say in Colorado, but Mexican food has never been at the top of my list. Don't get me wrong: I'll eat it—and I'll like it—but having grown up in Toronto, Mexican food just wasn't around all that much.

Enter the three-week-old Margs Taco Bistro. The LoDo spot's menu of "world tacos"—like an Asian option (with peanut sauce) or the caprese (with mozzarella and a citrus-basil spread)—means I've finally found a place where I and my traditional Mexican food-loving friends can meet in the middle.

The small spot offers a contemporary but laid-back vibe, complete with open-air, garage-door style windows. Grab a seat on the tiny patio, order a margarita (with a sprig of herbs from the mini-garden on the bar counter) and some chips with house-made black-bean salsa or, for more bite, the green tomatillo version. Any of the eight tacos currently available are worth a try, particularly the Moroccan. The tortilla is layered with tender chicken, curry yogurt, slaw, jicama, and a sweet-and-spicy pinapple-habanero salsa, giving the classic dish a gourmet feel while maintaining its messy goodness.

Regardless of what you choose, go to Margs hungry: The tacos are big enough that they need to be held together with toothpicks.

1519 Wynkoop St., 303-534-6274