Earlier this summer, when Barolo Grill closed for the staff's annual two-week trip to Italy, the restaurant was far from quiet. Instead, contractors were hard at work transforming the interior—something that was long overdue.

Gone are the kitschy grape leaves, the collection of dusty wine bottles, the farmhouse yellow walls. The new decor, done up in soothing earth tones and warm, contemporary lighting, is elegant but not overwrought. So, too, is the menu, which after 13 years under chef Brian Laird, is in the extremely capable hands of Darrel Truett.

Two things that haven't changed: the exceptional service (those annual trips to Italy make for some of the most informed and enthusiastic servers in town) and the outstanding Northern Italian cuisine.

Tip: Don't miss Truett's five-course tasting menu. For a real splurge, opt for the wine pairings and let your server teach you about Italian vino.

3030 E. Sixth Ave., 303-393-1040