For anyone who loves classic French fare—French onion soup, frog's legs, escargot—tonight's 5 p.m. opening of Le Grand Bistro & Oyster Bar is greatly anticipated. And for diners who remember the beloved, but short-lived, Brasserie Rouge (co-owned by Robert Thompson and Leigh Jones), Le Grand has the potential to fill a gaping hole in the Denver restaurant scene. "I've always believed that the only thing wrong with Brassiere Rouge was the [Ice House] location...," owner Thompson says. And so, he's resurrected the concept in the heart of the theater district.

Situated in the old Baur's Ristorante location, the 9,000-square-foot space has black-and-white paintings of heritage pigs on the walls and clean lines. The menu, headed by Sergio Romero (who also helmed the kitchen at Argyll), pays tribute to bistro favorites: charcuterie (don't miss the head cheese), mussels, steak frites (pictured), and the like. "We're not trying to do anything novel here," Thompson says. "We're simply attempting to perfect a classic concept."

Bonus: As a true bistro, Le Grand will, within a couple weeks, serve breakfast, lunch, dinner, and brunch.

1512 Curtis St., 303-534-1155

Photo: Kimberly Dawn