New: Cafe Bar
On Monday, Cafe Bar opened catty-corner from Bittersweet on Alameda Avenue and Pennsylvania Street. The premise is seasonal American cuisine with homespun items such as vegetable fritters, whiskey-cheddar meatballs, a bison burger, and country pork chop. The space is, quite frankly, a dead ringer for the Kitchen—right down to the color scheme (whites, grays, blacks), the clean lines and rustic finishes, and the chalkboard listing the local farmers, cheese makers, etc. In that sense, Cafe Bar feels comfortable, even familiar, and the experience comes together quite nicely.
Except, if you attempt to emulate a spot as revered as the Kitchen, the food must deliver. I think, eventually, it will, but chef Eric Rivera (formerly of Lala's Wine Bar + Pizzeria) has many kinks to iron out. The mushrooms on the Hazel Dell toast should be sliced smaller to reduce sponginess. The salads—particularly the Brussels sprouts and the seasonal pumpkin—both require more dressing and cheese (a creamy goat would work nicely for both) to pull them together. The meatballs require more meat than rice to improve the texture.
All of these hiccups—most of them textural rather than conceptual—are easy enough to fix. I have no doubt that once Cafe Bar settles in, it will become a neighborhood favorite because the menu selection, the affordable prices, and the space are worthy of crowds.
Tip: While the weather is nice, check out the patio.
295 S. Pennsylvania St., 303-362-0227
Facebook Comments Box
Here’s why it’s finally time to get back in the Denver real estate market.
We’ve highlighted some of the best road cycling routes along the Front Range and in the high...
Colorado’s labor market has more than its share of occupational hazards.
Each year, more than 18,000 victims of domestic violence call SafeHouse Denver’s hot line. Meet...
From obesity to food allergies, we break down five issues facing Colorado’s kids.