I championed chef Jens Patrik Landberg's cooking when he manned the burners at Satchel's Market in Park Hill. So when I heard he was opening Charcoal Restaurant in the Golden Triangle neighborhood, I put it on my list to try. I paid a visit a few days after the September 26th opening, and I'm pleased to report that Charcoal is a showcase for Landberg's talents.

The restaurant, located in the space formerly occupied by the now-defunct Apple Spice Junction, is warm and modern with a chef's-view kitchen, a large open dining area, and an elegant glass wine wall separating the dining area from the inviting bar.

Bucking the trend of small-plate dining, the menu is anchored by such hearty, perfect-for-fall entrées as grilled Colorado lamb, cast-iron halibut, and strip steak—all cooked on a customized grill set over 2,400-degree smokeless bincho charcoal. (This cooks meat at higher temperatures, crisping the outside while preserving the tender meat inside.) Landberg, who hails from Sweden, also includes several European touches on the menu, including akvavit gravlax and bagna cauda.

Tip: Try the charcuterie board (pictured)—it changes every day, but I enjoyed a selection of cheeses, house-made speck, and a heady chicken-liver mousse—to start.

43 W. Ninth Ave., 303-454-0000