Best Bites: The Wooden Table's Meatball Sub

October 28 2011, 11:30 AM

Walk into the Wooden Table, a new restaurant in Greenwood Village, and the suburban surroundings instantly fade away. Here's a polished, modern space with a noticeable eye for detail (check out the single-plank cherrywood bar and the gleaming myrtlewood community table). Clearly, owners Brett Shaheen (who spent five years cooking at Luca D' Italia and Osteria Marco) and GM Jane Duncan Knauf are seasoned vets.

The menu reflects their experience. Look for simple, Italian-influenced fare, including delicate house-made pastas and entrées such as roasted duck breast and braised duck leg cannelloni with butternut squash and Brussels sprouts.

At lunch, don't miss the meatball sub (the same meatballs appear at dinner, served with strands of bucatini). This classic combo of hearty meatballs—made with ground veal, beef, and pork—house red sauce, and fresh mozzarella, comes layered and melty on a chewy baguette. The accompanying chips are no afterthought. In fact, you'll likely finish them first, thanks to their fried-to-order crispy little selves that taste of salt and rosemary.

FYI: Reservations are a must. When I tried to drop in at 6:30 p.m. on a Saturday night, I found a full restaurant. While not good for me, I'm thrilled for what that means for the restaurant—and Greenwood Village.

2500 E. Orchard Rd., Greenwood Village, 303-730-2152