Go Now: Pinche Tacos

November 2011

Ten days ago, Pinche Tacos went the way of Biker Jim's, which is to say it morphed from mobile vendor to brick-and-mortar. I love the new space's industrial look, though you have to work to find the taqueria's York Street storefront (at least until the sign goes up).

The hunt is rewarded with an expanded menu of the innovative street tacos that chef-owner Kevin Morrison peddled from his Pinche Tacos truck (which will continue to run). When I visited yesterday, I supplemented my favorite offering—the queso a la plancha with griddled Cotija cheese, avocado, and tomatillo salsa—with orders of the rajas con crema y maiz and the pork belly "agridulce."

The creamed chipotle corn in the well-balanced rajas taco was sweet and spicy and reminded me of Jack-n-Grill's addictive corn in a cup. And my favorite part of the tender pork belly taco was the nutty candied garlic and the braising jus that's designed for dipping (though I ended up drizzling it over all my tacos).

Morrison's street concept translates perfectly to the urban space—not to mention the ever-so-slightly gritty neighborhood—and the food is just as good as ever.

Bonus: I can't wait to check out the brunch offerings Saturday, Sunday, and Monday, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

1514 York St., 720-475-1337