New Southern: The Pinyon in Boulder

January 2012

The 2012 Zagat Guide lists Southern cuisine as the hot new food trend. Expect to see an uptick in okra, pork chops, fried green tomatoes, and the like on menus this year. As the trend takes hold, there are already good examples of the cuisine locally.  

One of those is the Pinyon in Boulder where down-home favorites such as fried chicken, grilled pork chops, and cheddar grits line the menu. On a recent evening, I ordered a thoroughly satisfying bowl of shrimp and grits. The entrée arrived with four huge head-on tiger prawns atop a buttery mound of grits from Anson Mills, all of which had been doused with sauce made with spicy country ham. Topping it all was a soft-yolk fried egg that, when pierced, blanketed the dish with a gorgeous layer of creaminess.

If this combination, which blends traditional ingredients, artisanal producers, and contemporary preparation, is an indicator of what new Southern looks like, I say bring it on.

Elsewhere: Find more Southern riffs at spots such as Venue (shrimp and grits with Thai chile and cilantro) and Oak at Fourteenth (Benton's smoked Tennessee ham and fried green tomatoes).

1710 Pearl St., Boulder, 720-306-8248