Take-out: Queen of Sheba

January 25 2012, 10:30 AM

I've long been a fan of Ethiopian food—the stewed meats, the spicy vegetables, the sour injera flatbread upon which the meal is served (and with which it's eaten). What I've not been so keen on: the long wait that typically accompanies a meal in many Ethiopian restaurants.

Happily, I've discovered the take-out option at Queen of Sheba on Colfax Avenue. Here, I can order the traditional meat combination, which comes with spicy red lentils, stewed spinach, a sautéed mix of cabbage, potatoes, and carrots, a tender chicken drumstick, and two kinds of beef ("tibs," which are sautéed beef cubes, and "wot," a stewed preparation). Like all combo platters (vegetarian, included), the dish is anchored with a single, hard-boiled egg.

What I love about Ethiopian cuisine in general, and Queen of Sheba in particular, is the layered flavor. One bite might be filled with the lively heat of chile and white pepper, another with the richness of garlic and butter, a third with the tantalizing scent of cardamom. None of the richness is lost in the take-out transport, and everything is easily re-heatable.

Tip: To avoid waiting, call at least 45 minutes ahead.

7225 E. Colfax Ave., 303-399-9442