It's been nearly 24 hours since my lunch at the Kitchen Denver and I can't stop thinking about the garlic fries. Those chubby lengths of potato arrive piled high, piping hot, and with house-made ketchup. I’ll gladly risk burning my fingertips for the first bite. Unlike many versions, these fries are terrific on their own. This is thanks to a laborious process of presoaking the russets and then blanching, frying, and, finally, tossing them with garlic, parsley, butter (yes!), and kosher salt. "We think there's a right way to get the right results," chef Kyle Mendenhall says of the method.

Pair the nibbles with the potted salmon—a creamy, spreadable blend of poached salmon, crème fraîche, and Pernod served in a tiny jar—and then head into the entrées. Or, simply add a salad (perhaps the roasted beets with hazelnuts and goat cheese) and you've got a satisfying meal. Order a glass of Rose or Grüner Veltliner and make it an occasion.

Make ’Em At Home: I found this recipe for the Kitchen's garlic fries online—and here's a more dialed-down version.

1530 16th St., 303-623-3127