When I fall for a particular cheese, I fall hard. Currently, I'm stuck on the heavenly Shepherd's Halo from Larkspur-based Fruition Farms Dairy.

The creamy, soft-rind, sheep's-milk cheese is elegant and perfectly balanced. It has enough pungency to attract, not repel. It's buttery, not cloying. And inside the tang, there's a hint of sweetness (due to the molasses and corn eaten by the sheep). The cheese pairs well with both white wine and beer.

Alex Seidel, co-owner of Fruition Farms Dairy (and Denver's Fruition Restaurant), suggests pairing the cheese with a Saison Belgian Style Ale from Funkwerks in Fort Collins, a Pineau des Charentes (a wine fortified with cognac), or an acidic Pinot Gris to offset the cheese's richness.

Buy: Shepherd's Halo and other Fruition Farms cheeses can be found locally at Marczyk Fine Foods, the Truffle Cheese Shop, and Cured.

14347 E. Cherry Creek Road , Larkspur, 303-847-7113