In the last three weeks, I have been home for dinner exactly five times. That's a lot of restaurant dining, with dozens of dishes and too many courses to count. But even in this sea of meals there are moments that stand out. One of those is the summer white bean stew at Twelve Restaurant in the Ballpark neighborhood.

Don't be deterred by the word "stew," this arrangement of small white beans and vegetables—and its burst of basil pesto—is perfectly suited to our warm weather. At its core, the plate is a riff on Italian minestrone and French soupe au pistou. Chef-owner Jeff Osaka pulled his favorite elements from both iconic dishes, omitted the tomato (too acidic), and dialed up the mirepoix by keeping it large. The peppery arugula salad over top added a fresh snap that's ideal for summer.

The Steal: Dine on a Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday for a $38 prix-fixe, three-course menu.

2233 Larimer St., 303-293-0287