Best Bites: Coohills' Pork Sandwich

August 2012

I'm always on the hunt for an interesting sandwich, one that's had real thought put into it. On Wednesday, I found one such dish at CoohillsTom and Diane Coohill's nine-month-old French-American restaurant.

The grilled Berkshire pork sandwich, which is on the lunch menu, showcased a thick-cut of juicy, well seasoned pork. Shaved fennel lent elegance to a snappy apple slaw and slices of melty Brie kept the bun intact and in place. My favorite part of the dish, however, was the garnish: Three confited cherry tomatoes whose skins had been artfully peeled back so as to look like firecrackers. (The technique came from the Coohills' son, who just spent time in France staging at Michelin-starred restaurants.) The tomatoes were beautiful and rich—and unexpected.

At $14, this is an expensive sandwich but it was hearty (probably enough for two meals if you're a light eater) and I ate every bite. My only complaint was that the fries, though hand-cut, expertly spiced, and hot, were limp.

Tip: Sit in the bar for a low-key vibe, while maintaining a good vantage point of the beautiful space.

1400 Wewatta St., 303-623-5700