New: Pearl Street's Fourteen Seventy-Two

October 11 2012, 11:00 AM

For geographical reasons alone, it's a safe bet many Coloradans don't often eat low-country dishes that originate from the coastal areas of Georgia and South Carolina. Fourteen Seventy-Two, which opened on Denver's South Pearl Street (next to Stella's Coffeehaus) in mid-September, aims to change that.

The restaurant, located inside a 123-year-old house the owners spent two-plus years remodeling, serves an extensive menu of low-country favorites such as shrimp and grits, barbecued ribs, and seafood boil, which brings together in one pot crawfish, clams, mussels, crab, and Andouille sausage. On my first visit, I went for the chicken and waffles (pictured). In the dish, a thick (but light) buttermilk waffle supports a generous mound of tender pulled chicken infused with whiskey and maple. Crunchy bits of smoky bacon top the chicken, and a small carafe of sweet and delicious maple cream sauce comes on the side. The sweet and savory meal brings breakfast, dinner, and dessert together on one plate.

The chicken and waffles aside, there are kinks to work out. From the outside, the renovated space is bold, with a two-story, street-facing patio perfect for warm-weather dining. The inside, however, is a bit odd. There is no bar (diners stand by the entrance holding drinks and waiting for seats), and only four-top—or larger—tables are available. When you do sit, the tables are so wide you're forced to lean forward to make conversation. This makes it uncomfortable dining with one other person. Plus, the service needs work. We waited an annoying amount of time for plates to be cleared and the check to arrive.

1472 So. Pearl St., 303-325-1447