To find one of the best meals in Colorado, you’ll need to drive to Telluride—and it’s totally worth it. Just across the street from the gondola sits Cosmopolitan of Telluride, chef-owner Chad Scothorn’s homage to fusion and (whenever possible) locally sourced ingredients. Fusion cuisine often gets a bad rap but the meal we enjoyed was an exciting mash-up of Asian, French, and American dishes.

We began with a snappy and fresh spider roll (sushi roll appetizers are half-price during happy hour) and complemented that with a plate of succulent lobster corn dogs. For one entrée, we chose the subtly seasoned chicken rillettes with a tender lemon risotto, along with garden-fresh snap peas and wild mushrooms.

This dish was satisfying without being too filling, but our second entrée—the surf and turf—was the real showstopper. The grilled Kobe beef filet and butter-poached lobster tail were served over mushrooms, asparagus, and sour cream–mashed potatoes. As it happens, we’ve sampled similar entrées in the past few months at both Edge Restaurant & Bar and Ocean Prime, two of Denver’s high-end standbys. Cosmo’s dish transcended them both. I’ve never been much of a lobster fan—to which lobster enthusiasts always say, “You haven’t had it cooked right.” Well, now I have, and it was spectacular.

Satiated as we were, we still ordered dessert: a wild blueberry pie with sour cream ice cream that tasted like a flaky, sweet, and slightly tart mix of Americana. All in all, Cosmopolitan offers lively fare in a cozy setting, served by a staff that’s professional and friendly, but in that uniquely chill Telluride way. There are plenty of reasons to visit one of Colorado’s most beautiful and authentic mountain towns; just make sure to make time for Cosmopolitan.

300 W. San Juan, Telluride, 970-728-1292

—Photo courtesy of Cosmopolitan of Telluride.

—Follow 5280 articles editor Luc Hatlestad on Twitter at @lucHatlestad.