One of the things Denver's evolving nightlife needs more of is food options after midnight. The latest eatery to fill that void is Tom's Urban 24 on Larimer Square. 

Founded by former fast food magnate Tom Ryan—who also launched Smashburger after his previous high-level stints at Quiznos, Pizza Hut, and McDonald's—the restaurant is just as the name suggests: open 'round the clock.

I dined there on a recent Saturday night, and while it's too soon to formally review the barely week-old joint, I can say that it's off to an encouraging start. The servers were warm, professional, and well informed, a major asset for a menu that's like Steuben's on steroids.

Unlike Steuben's, which has a succinct lineup of reliable menu items, Urban 24's range of offerings is wide enough to be daunting: My party of four of shared appetizers of deviled eggs, Asian duck wings, and a lightly cheesy popcorn; for entrées we chose a mushroom truffle arugula pizza, pho (pictured), a grilled fig jam-and-cheese sandwich, and "Fried Chickenlooper," which is pretty much what it sounds like. This varied assortment represented just a sliver of Tom's multifaceted menu. (Of the dishes we tried, the standouts were the duck wings, the eggs, and the sandwich, because they all combined simple and distinct flavors without trying to do too much.)

Like any new restaurant, Tom's Urban 24 is still working out a groove, but what's there right now is promising. As for Tom's hours of operation, well, it's about time.

1460 Larimer St., 720-214-0516

—Image courtesy of Jessica Grenier Photography

Follow 5280 articles editor Luc Hatlestad on Twitter at @LucHatlestad.