Sometimes, all it takes is one dish to lure me back for repeat visits. At Bistro Vendôme, my latest go-back-for-more favorite is the foie gras saisie.

The appetizer consists of a meaty, pan-seared wedge of duck liver whose crispy, almost-charcoaly exterior hides a smooth and buttery interior. The foie gras is served atop a thick paintbrush smear of fig-porcini purée, and is accompanied by crunchy slivers of fried pickled mushrooms, buttons of creamy sunchoke veloute, and a drizzle of sticky-sweet fig gastrique.

The appetizer pairs well with a glass of aromatic Vouvray, and—when eaten at the bar with slices of baguette--makes for a quick and satisfying pre-theatre snack.

Tip: If you have time, add an order of chocolate pot de crème brioche bread pudding. It's chewy, chocolatey, and served with marshmallow ice cream that, when melted, creates a seductive milk-chocolate bath.

1420 Larimer St., 303-825-3232

—Photo courtesy of Bistro Vendôme