For better or worse, the bacon-in-everything trend that took hold a couple of years ago shows no signs of abating. I barely notice it anymore when I see bacon in cupcakes or candybars or ice cream. (Although I was momentarily stunned when I read about bacon-scented lip balm and bacon coffins.)

Given its ubiquity, I'm now more likely to take notice when bacon arrives looking just like...bacon.

At the Berkshire in Stapleton, well-known for its pork-centric menu, I recently ordered the bacon flight, which comes with four clearly identifiable strips of the smoky, cured meat. There is a twist, however. Each strip has been flavored with something unexpected: garlic, curry, balsamic vinegar, and cinnamon-chipotle. (The latter two were my favorites.)

In the Berkshire's presentation, the chewy meatiness of the bacon remains intact, but each strip has been dressed for a different kind of party. I like this twist on the trend. Instead of bacon being the supporting actor for another more famous dish (how 2012!), here bacon takes its rightful place center stage.

7352 E. 29th Ave., 303-321-4010

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