When Patrick Mangold-White launched Kaos Pizzeria on South Pearl Street in 2009, he divulged his plan to—someday—open a neighborhood taquería. Nearly four years later, Mangold-White (who also co-owns Gaia Bistro) is making it happen: Uno Mas Taquería will open in mid-May in the Budapest Bistro space. Drew Middleton, Gaia's executive chef, has been tapped to head up the kitchen.
Given the taco trend (see Margs Taco Bistro, T/aco, and the wildly successful Pinche Taco), the name Uno Mas (meaning "one more") is fitting. But it also downplays Mangold-White and Middleton's mission. The menu, while focused on tacos and a deep salsa bar, is well rounded enough to include ceviche, posole, and tortas (I've got my eye on the sandwich layered with chorizo, potatoes, cabbage, and black bean purée). Mangold-White describes the restaurant's focus as nose-to-tail with locally raised animals (including lamb and goat) and produce.
Mangold-White, who lives in Platt Park, has a keen sense of what the neighborhood needs. And unless you count the now-closed, totally mediocre 3 Monkeys Cantina, Mexican food has long been out of reach for residents.
Down the Street: Last week, I toured the Izakaya Den construction site. The modern space—which is going to be a spectacular feat of concrete, steel, and glass—is still expected to open at the end of May.
1585 S. Pearl St.
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