Best Bites: Tables' Salmon with Sorrel Hollandaise

June 2013

Tables in Park Hill has been one of my top-choice, go-to neighborhood restaurants for years. There, chef-owners Amy Vitale and Dustin Barrett offer that magical mix: a seasonal menu that doesn't disappoint; a casual environment that welcomes no matter your mood nor style of dress; and a waitstaff who remember you and your favorite bottle of wine.

Dinner there last week was a classic Tables experience. The server, recognizing my boyfriend and me, told us that our favorite Grüner Veltliner was no longer on the menu—but that there were a few bottles left in back, one of which she hastened to grab for us. She asked if we wanted to begin with the tuna tartare, which we always do (answer: yes). Then she patiently waited—weighing in as necessary—as we debated and contemplated our entrées.

I eventually settled on the colorful roasted beet salad served with a light, dill-lemon cream, followed by the grilled salmon. Served atop fresh asparagus spears and new potatoes, and accompanied by a generous pinch of Dungeness crab, the dish showcased what a good hollandaise sauce can do. Barrett's hollandaise is light with just enough heft to cling to each forkful of fish. In a nice twist, he blends the hollandaise with sorrel, a deep green, lemony herb that happens to grow well in Colorado.

Whether you opt for a nightly special such as the halibut with local hothouse heirloom tomatoes (as I did two weeks ago), or a menu mainstay like the burger of the day (which might be made from ground sirloin, or Italian sausage), you almost can't make a mistake here.

2267 Kearney, 303-388-0299