Go Now: Comida at The Source

September 9 2013, 10:40 AM

Have you been to Comida at the Source yet? The modern Mexican cantina was the first business to launch in the just-opening food-and-vendor hall. Already, the restaurant has found a following: on Friday Comida did 150 covers at lunch.

The eatery, which grew out of Rayme Rossello's popular food truck by the same name, offers a menu that is both straightforward (tacos, tortas, tostadas) and fun (jalapeño grits; smoked Gouda–sweet potato mash). It's street food with flair. In fact, Rossello’s food is so celebrated that she and “Tina,” the truck, are regulars at the annual Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. The Source is Comida’s second location; a Longmont outpost opened in 2012.

Start with a basket of just-fried chips and three fresh salsas. Choose the pineapple-habanero, the cucumber-jalapeño crema, and the carrot-habanero—all are spicy but balanced.

Move to the tacos. Don't-miss versions include the Stella's pork carnitas tacos with slow-cooked pork, a smear of smoked Gouda–sweet potato mash, a toss of that pineapple-habanero salsa; the chorizo and red onion escabeche with roasted garlic mash and salsa verde, crema, and a sprinkling of Cotija cheese; and the spicy shrimp with jalapeño grits, pico de gallo, and avocado. (All pictured above.)

Sip on the aqua frescas (I particularly like the house-made horchata) or one of the cocktails and watch the bustle of the Source. Most vendors are still opening and there’s a flurry of activity. Mondo Market, a charcuterie shop and deli is already operating, while Babette's Artisan Breads comes online this week, and Acorn, a Denver offshoot of Oak at Fourteenth, launched last night.

3350 Brighton Blvd., 303-573-0781

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