Best Bites: Corner House's Chicken Thigh

November 2013

I rarely order chicken when dining out, and here’s why: The simple protein is easy enough to cook at home. But after trying the crispy sofrito chicken thigh at Corner House, I may have to rethink that mantra.

At his Jefferson Park restaurant, executive chef Matt Selby massages dark-meat chicken thighs with an herb-forward sofrito dry rub. Then he roasts the protein in a super-hot oven to yield crispy skin. Selby plates the thighs with Polidori chorizo rice and, the crowning element, sangria onions. Marinated with tequila, red wine, lemon, orange, and lime juice, the veggie's sweet crunchiness is a perfect foil for the rustic meat. Queso fresco and a citrusy saffron aïoli finish off the dish. The bursts of acidity elevate this comforting fall dish into something you'll want to enjoy year-round—especially thanks to the $15 price tag. 

Sips: Order the Geri Halliwell (named after, you guessed it, the Spice Girl) for a cocktail that balances local Elevate VodkaSolerno blood orange liqueur, lime, agave, and ginger beer with fresh Fresno chiles.

2240 Clay St., 720-287-1895

Follow associate editor Daliah Singer on Twitter at @daliahsinger.