Around Town: Citrus

January 2014

If there's any doubt about what time of year it is, look to the menus. Citrus—lemons, oranges, kumquats, and grapefruits—are freshening up dishes all over town. The following items are of particular note:

At Acorn, executive chef Steven Redzikowski adds Meyer lemons, which taste like a cross between a lemon and a mandarin orange, to jalapeño-studded razor clam ceviche. He also garnishes the coconut and pineapple parfait with thin slices of sweet-tart kumquats.

Kumquats add the finishing touch at Lower48 Kitchen where Alex Figura places a dehydrated slice atop a mini hoecake stacked with citrus-cured salmon, sour cream, and horseradish.

At the Plimoth, the fresh fruit tartlet with Meyer lemon cream, ruby red grapefruit, and orange supremes ends the meal on a light, refreshing note.

As for the home kitchen, these recipes for roasted olives with clementine (I used kumquats) and grilled halloumi cheese and lemon are my favorite ways to make the most of the season.

What to sip? Why, this Sage Brown Derby from Bon Appétit, of course. And, check out this gorgeous citrus photo from Andrew Knowlton, the magazine’s restaurant and drinks editor.

Acorn, 3350 Brighton Blvd., 720-542-3721

Lower48 Kitchen, 2020 Lawrence St., 303-942-0262

The Plimoth, 2335 28th Ave., 303-297-1215

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—Photo via Shutterstock