Restaurant Redux: Gondolier

February 11 2014, 10:30 AM

Loyal fans of the 52-year-old Gondolier are cheering now that the cherished Boulder institution is back to business. Gary and Jan Kugel first began serving heirloom Italian recipes in 1960 on Broadway Avenue in Boulder. Since then, the Gondelier has moved several times, and rent at the latest Pearl Street location proved to too pricey for the mom-and-pop eatery. Consequently, chef-owner Nelson Kugel (the Kugel's son, who trained at the Western Culinary Institute) shuttered the Pearl Street space and re-opened on December 22 in the Meadows on the Parkway Shopping Center.

The younger Kugel remains committed to offering seasonal, handcrafted Italian cuisine at a reasonable price point. With warm woods, a long bar area, and a dining room bathed in a palate of cappuccino and chocolate, the new upscale casual spot is both cozy and accessible. Old favorites, like house-made, thick-cut spaghetti (pictured) and generously loaded pizzas still shine, as well as an outstanding list of soups, salads, pastas, and sandwiches. At lunchtime, don’t miss the hot beef au jus sandwich with house-pickled giardiniera or the outstanding burger Caprese topped with fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, basil, aged balsamic, and pesto aïoli, nestled in a house-made bun.

Meadows on the Parkway Shopping Center,

4800 Baseline Road, Suite A-104, Boulder, 303-443-5015